If you're hearing a weird clunking noise coming from your belt box, it's probably time to think about a can am defender secondary clutch roller replacement. It's one of those jobs that sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is, but if you ignore it, you're looking at a much more expensive repair down the road. Most Defender owners eventually run into this because the factory rollers are, to put it bluntly, a bit fragile. They're made of a plastic composite that just doesn't love the high heat and heavy loads that these machines deal with on a daily basis.
Whether you use your Can-Am for hauling wood around the property or you're out hitting the mud trails every weekend, the secondary clutch is doing a lot of the heavy lifting. When those rollers start to flat-spot or break entirely, your shifting gets clunky, your power delivery feels "off," and you might even start eating through belts faster than you can buy them.
Why You Can't Ignore Those Clicking Noises
The thing about the Can-Am Defender is that it's a workhorse, but like any workhorse, it has its weak spots. The stock secondary clutch rollers are one of them. You'll usually notice something is wrong when you're shifting from neutral into gear or when you're decelerating. That "clack-clack-clack" sound isn't just a quirk of the machine; it's the sound of your rollers failing to do their job.
When a roller gets a flat spot, it stops rolling and starts sliding. This creates friction and heat, which eventually leads to the roller shattering. If you keep driving on a shattered roller, the metal parts of your clutch—like the helix—start grinding against each other. Replacing a set of rollers is cheap. Replacing an entire secondary clutch or a ruined helix? That's going to hurt the wallet.
Most people realize they need a can am defender secondary clutch roller replacement when they notice the machine feels sluggish. It's like the CVT isn't reacting as fast as it used to. If you've ever felt like the "gearing" is stuck or it takes a second to catch when you hit the gas, the rollers are the prime suspects.
The Tools You'll Actually Need
Before you start tearing things apart, you'll want to make sure you have everything on hand. There's nothing worse than getting halfway through a job and realizing you don't have that one specific socket.
First, you're going to need a way to get the belt off. Your Defender should have come with a small spreader tool in the tool kit, but a lot of people prefer an aftermarket belt removal tool because they're easier on the hands. You'll also need a decent set of sockets—usually a 13mm and some Torx bits (T20 and T30 are common for the plastics).
The big one, though, is a clutch puller or at least a way to safely compress the secondary if you're taking it all the way apart. You can get away with some basic garage tools, but if you're planning on doing this more than once, investing in a proper secondary clutch compression tool is a lifesaver. Oh, and don't forget some heavy-duty aftermarket rollers. If you're going through the trouble of replacing them, don't put the cheap OEM ones back in. Go for something beefy like G-Boost or any high-quality heavy-duty resin rollers.
Getting Down to Business: Removing the Clutch
Alright, let's get into the actual work. First things first, you've got to get access to the CVT cover. On the Defender, this usually means taking off the rear wheel on the driver's side and maybe some of the plastic shielding. It's a bit of a pain, but once you get those screws out, the cover should pop off.
Once the cover is off, take a second to look at the belt. If there's a ton of black dust everywhere, you've been slipping. Now, use your spreader tool to open up the secondary clutch sheaves. This will give the belt some slack so you can wiggle it off the pulleys.
With the belt out of the way, you can remove the bolt holding the secondary clutch onto the input shaft. Be careful here—don't lose the washers or spacers that might be behind it. They're important for your clutch alignment. Slide the secondary clutch off, and now you can take it over to your workbench where the real fun begins.
Swapping the Rollers Without Losing Your Mind
Now that you have the secondary clutch on the bench, you'll see the helix (that big metal piece with the ramps). You need to compress the spring inside so you can remove the bolts holding the helix in place. This is where that compression tool I mentioned earlier comes in handy. If you don't have one, you can get creative with some long bolts and nuts, but be careful—there's a lot of spring tension there.
Once the helix is off, the rollers are right there. You'll probably see exactly why your machine was acting up. One or both of them will likely be flat-sided or cracked. To do a proper can am defender secondary clutch roller replacement, you need to pop the pins out that hold the rollers in.
Sometimes these pins are held in by small snap rings, and other times they're just pressed in. Use a small punch to gently tap them out. Slide the old, tired rollers out and slide your new, heavy-duty ones in. It's a good idea to put a tiny bit of dry lube on the pins, but stay away from grease. Grease just attracts belt dust and creates a nasty paste that will ruin your clutch in no time.
Putting It All Back Together
Reassembly is pretty much the reverse of what you just did, but there are a couple of things to watch out for. When you're putting the helix back on, make sure it's lined up correctly. There are usually timing marks (little dots or arrows) on the clutch components. You want to make sure those stay aligned so everything stays balanced.
Compress the spring, get those bolts back into the helix, and torque them down to spec. Now, slide the secondary back onto the shaft. Make sure it seats all the way back. Put the main bolt back in and torque it down—usually around 45-50 ft-lbs, but check your specific year's manual just to be sure.
Before you put the belt back on, this is the perfect time to clean everything. Use some compressed air to blow out all the belt dust from both the primary and secondary clutches. You'd be surprised how much junk builds up in there. If the sheaves (the flat faces the belt touches) look glazed or dirty, give them a quick scuff with some Scotch-Brite and wipe them down with rubbing alcohol. This gives the belt a much better surface to grab onto.
Why Aftermarket Rollers Are the Way to Go
I can't stress this enough: if you're doing a can am defender secondary clutch roller replacement, do not put the stock plastic rollers back in. They're fine for a brand-new machine that isn't being pushed hard, but for anyone who actually uses their UTV, they're a ticking time bomb.
Aftermarket rollers are usually made from materials like Torlon or other high-temp resins. They can handle the heat of a long day of work without softening up and getting flat spots. Plus, they're way more resistant to shattering. It's one of those "set it and forget it" upgrades. You might spend $20 or $30 more now, but you'll save yourself hours of labor and the cost of a new clutch later on.
Once you've got the belt back on, give the secondary a few spins by hand to let the belt settle into place. Put the cover back on, bolt your wheel back up, and you're ready for a test drive. You should immediately notice that the machine shifts smoother and that annoying clunking is gone. It's a great feeling knowing your drivetrain is solid again.
So, don't let a simple thing like a worn-out roller keep your Defender in the garage. Grab some tools, get some good parts, and get it fixed. Your machine (and your belt) will definitely thank you for it.